DIY ROOFING
- Sep 13, 2022
- 7 min read
DO IT YOURSELF ASPHALT ROOFING WEEKEND PROJECT
This DIY Asphalt Roofing Project does not require you to be an experienced roofing contractor and can be completed from start to finish in just one weekend. The roofing materials being used in this project is Asphalt Shingles or Composition Shingles. These have made a vast improvement today and are much more advanced than it's earlier generations. They are much more durable, easier to install and can enhance the appearance of all types of roofs. Asphalt Shingles are made from a range of materials. Our favourite are the Laminate Asphalt Shingles that are made from fibreglass mat. These are thicker and provide more wind resistance.
EQUIPPED FOR SAFETY
Before you begin any roofing project, be sure that you are equipped for safety. Ropes and harnesses are a must and if your roof has more steepness to it, Be sure to have a roof scaffold system in place to ensure safety in your working environment.
ROOF SLOPES
First row: Shallow 12/1, 12/2, 12/3, 12/4, 12/5, 12/6
Second row: Moderate 12/7, 12/8, 12/9, 12/10, 12/11, 12/12
Third row: Steep 12/13, 12/14, 12/15, 12/16, 12/17, 12/18
MATERIALS for the projet
Plastic roof cement
11/4", 11/2", 13/4" Galvanized nails
Roof flashing
Fascia board
Ridge vent
Vent flashing
Sealant
Chimney Flashing
Valley flashing
Self-adhesive waterproof membrane (Underlayment)
Asphalt shingles
Roof felt (15 or 30 lbs)
TOOLS for the project
Crowbar
Chalk line
Pneumatic roofing nailer
Roofing hammer
Roofing knife
Roofing shovel
Combination square
STEPS
1. Remove old shingles
2. Install protection membrane to the valleys
3. Install the underlayment
4. Build the open metal valleys
5. Lay out the starter shingles
6. Lay the subsequent rows
7. Shingle open valley
8. Install wall flashing
9. Waterproof the vent pipes
10. Install metal ridge vent
11. Shingle
1. REMOVE THE OLD SHINGLES
With your roofing shovel, lift and remove all the old shingle and pry out all the nails.
Clear all removed material and dispose of them properly. Run a scraper over the entire roofing surface to look for any missed nails.
Replace any damaged plywood or particle board. Replace any rotten boards with new panels that must be at least half an inch thick.
Nail or screw down any boards that are lifted or loose.
Install a metal or vinyl drip edge directly on the plywood the length of the eaves. Nail at 12" intervals and lap each section by 2". Use snips to cut the corners.
Check that soffit and ridge vents are not obstructed.
2. INSTALL THE PROTECTION MEMBRANE & COVER THE VALLEYS
According to the applicable building code, install self-adhesive waterproof membrane 36-72" wide.
Lay down and make sure the membrane overlaps the metal drip edge by 3/8".
Temporarily attach the roof membrane at a few equidistant locations.
Starting with the lower half of the membrane, fold back the membrane and peel off the release film, then fold back and adjust if needed.
Press and adhere firmly over entire surface.
Remove the temporary installations and repeat the same process for the upper half.
Do the same for the eaves and fascia.
Install roof vents and other elements on the decking.
Cover valleys with the same membrane but with a 36" strip (of self-adhesive membrane down the centre of the valley) so that half of the strip (approximately 18") covers each side. Overlap each section of the membrane by 6-12".
Lay the membrane up the sides of the chimney extended by 4" to form a 12" strip on the roof around the chimney.
Cover ridges and crests so that half a strip (approximately 18") covers each side.
3. INSTALL THE UNDERLAYMENT
Starting at the bottom of the roof, install a felt or synthetic roofing underlayment over the entire surface.
Nail down the underlayment to the roof with nails or roofing staples, spacing the nails 8"apart at the centre where sections overlap.
Advance the underlayment by 6" on the self-adhering waterproof membrane along the fascia board.
Cover the whole roof, being sure to line each row by 4-6".
(4" on the valley membrane and by at least 6" on the ridges and crest).
Extend 4" around the chimney and at the intersection of all vertical surfaces on the roof.
Cut the openings for the chimney and vents.
Install the metal drip edge over the membrane on the fascia board.
4. BUILD THE OPEN METAL VALLEYS
Starting at the bottom of the roof, install metal valley trim on the membrane.
Center the trim on the valley and secure the edge with roofing nails. The nail head must maintain the flashing in place. Do not perforate the metal.
Continue along the valley and lap sections of trim by at least 6". Coat each overlay with plastic cement.
Establish two lines on either side of the valley where the shingles will end.
Place a line at the top, 3" from the centre on both sides of the valley.
Deviate 1/8" per foot (from the valley) as you bring the line down to the drip edge, where the maximum deviation should be 8".
Snap the chalk line on both sides of the valley
5. LAY OUT THE STARTER SHINGLES
Start in the lower left corner and work towards the valley. Read the manufacturer's instructions specific to the type of shingle.
Snap a horizontal chalk line 5-10" from the lower edge of the roof. Adjust the measurement according to the type of shingle.
Snap a vertical chalk line every 6ꞌ and horizontal lines at regular intervals to ensure the rows of shingles will be straight.
Use a starter strip or cut the tabs off the shingles to be used.
Cut 3-5" from the left side of the shingle to stagger joins.
Install the starter shingle with the adhesive strip on the edge of the roof. Overlap the fascia boards by approximately 3/8".
Align with the chalk line. If necessary, move and snap another line according to the width of the starter strip
Secure the starter strip with 4 nails equally spaced. Do not nail closer than 6" from the fascia board, 1" from the lateral edges, and ½" above each notch. Do not nail into the self-adhesive strip. Nails must be perfectly straight and flush with the surface of the shingles.
Install starter rows the entire length of the eaves.
When you come to a valley, place the starter strip on top of the flashing and cut along the chalk line.
Nail 2" from the chalk line.
Make a 2" bevel cut in the upper corner of the strip and coat the valley side with asphalt sealant.
6. LAY THE SUBSEQUENT ROWS
Start off the first row with a whole shingle.
Place the shingle in the starting corner in such a way that the last shingle will overhang the fascia board by 3/8".
Drive in 4 straight nails only until the nail heads make contact with the asphalt. Avoid tearing.
Stagger each new row by a half-tab.
Align the lower edge of the shingle with the top of the notches on the preceding row.
Repeat for every row.
7. SHINGLE OPEN VALLEYS
Place the shingles on top of the metal valley flashing.
Verify that the shingle is at least 12" wide. If necessary, cut the width of the preceding shingle
Cut shingles, respecting the angle of the chalk line.
Make a 2" bevel cut in the upper corners so that water will be directed to the centre.
Nail in the shingle no more than 2" from the chalk line.
Coat the ends of each shingle with a 3" strip of asphalt sealant from the flashing to the upper corner. Cover all the nails along the length of the valley flashing.
8. INSTALL WALL FLASHING
Ensure that the self-adhesive membrane covers 4" up the wall and a 12" strip on the roof.
Place the first piece of flashing on the starter strip at the junction of the roof and the wall. If necessary, install a drip cap to the gutter below.
Nail in the flashing at the top through the shingle, using two nails. These will be covered by the next row of shingles. Do not nail to the wall, only the roof.
Install step flashing when shingles are being cut and installed the length of the wall. Pre-bent 8" x 8" flashing must extend up the wall at a height of 4", cover 4" of the asphalt shingle, and overlap.
On the wall, cover the step flashing with an adhesive waterproofing membrane.
Install an air-barrier on the wall
9. WATERPROOF THE VENT PIPES
Install shingles right up to the vent pipe.
Trim shingles so that they fit around the pipe, then nail.
Insert pre-formed flashing (vent pipe boot) around the vent, then glue with plastic roof cement. The boot should extend 4" over the lower shingles, rise 8" on the vent, and extend 6" on both sides.
Colmater l'espace entre le tuyau et le solin avec du ciment plastique.
Continue installing shingles, taking care to completely cover the upper edge of the flashing.
Glue all parts of shingles overlapping the flashing with plastic cement.
Coat exposed nails with plastic roof cement
10. INSTALL METAL RIDGE VENT
Snap a chalk line 7/8" from the ridge on both sides of the roof. If roof trusses are evident, the gap should be 1 ¾" the length of the ridge. Leave 8-10" along a wall or chimney.
Measure the thickness of the sheathing and adjust the circular saw to that measurement.
Cut the sheathing and be sure not to cut down to the rafters. Follow the two chalk lines along the ridge.
Use a wood chisel to complete the cut at the ends
Remove the sheathing panel with a pry bar. Remove all nails along the cut.
Install the shingles up to the ridge so that they cover the sealed strip on both sides of the ridge.
Cut the shingles covering the vent opening.
Center the vent on the ridge.
Nail at the top of the opening every 6", alternating from side to side.
11. SHINGLE
Start from the bottom edge of the ridge.
Depending on the type of shingle, use a perforated ridge shingle or cut three-tab shingles into squares.
Bend the shingle piece over the crest and nail it through the top corners, 1" from each side.
Lap and center the second shingle.
Cover the entire crest.
Use plastic roof cement to glue the last shingle.
Coat all exposed nails with roof cement.
Install the last row of shingles. The granule surface should be at least 6" from the ridge
Fold back the upper part of the shingle and nail.
Cover the other side in the same way.
Start at the end of the roof that faces the prevailing winds.
If you found our post helpful, please like, share or leave a comment below. If you're looking to hire a contractor for your re-roofing or roof replacement project, visit us at www.mightyroofingandexteriors.com or give us a call for a free estimate and friendly non obligated advise.
We at Mighty Roofing & Exteriors Inc., are a locally owned Roofing Company, that is dedicated to the City of Calgary and Surrounding Areas.
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